Wednesday, May 25, 2011

The Pioneer Woman vs Reality

Things I am not going to do in this post are as follows. I am not going to talk about the Pioneer Woman’s aka Ree Drummond’s personality even though it irritates me more than Rachel Ray, which is saying something. I will not be discussing any aspect of her life only her recipes, even though many unsavory reports abound. And finally, I will try to assume that people who like the Pioneer Woman have a valid reason for doing so, although that may kill me.

I first was made aware of the Pioneer Woman a few years ago. Since food blogs are always a good idea in my eyes I took a look. Now there are others parts to her website other than food but since none of them held any interest for me I only perused the cooking section. I left her webpage around 5 minutes later feeling rather nonplussed. Her recipes just seemed so…basic. So…boring. Ok, I thought, nothing to hold my interest, she’ll probably fizzle out in a short amount of time.

Cut to the present day. PW is bigger than ever. Book tours, a movie in the works, a food network show, and hordes of devoted followers, including many of my friends. Baffled I looked at some of her newer recipes thinking I had perhaps missed something, perhaps she had developed into a chef in those few years and had really started to do actual cooking. Once again I found nothing of interest, I delved deeper, and it was then I started to get irritated. I used Google relentlessly, reading articles and blog that were for and against PW. Many of her detractors focused on parts of her life that held no interest for me. I cared about one thing only. Bad food.

I began my foray into Pioneer Woman cooking by perusing her website. I read through her recipes for the past few months to get a feel for her style of cooking. PW generally posts a recipe around every three days. Thirty recipes later my eyes were tired and my head throbbed. There could be no possible way that anybody thought this was amazing food. Yet each recipe had over one-hundred mostly positive comments, some upwards of six-hundred rave reviews. Was I that off in my culinary tastes? Was I the only person in America not to get PW’s awesomeness? (Since there is a website called thepioneerwomansux.com, obviously not!) I however do not like to assume that people are food dumb, so I closely read the glowing reviews. All this footwork over the past few days led me to some solid conclusions.

The Pioneer Woman is most definitely not a chef, not even a cook. As the author of a very popular blog and a self proclaimed cook one would suppose that PW would be offering recipes to her public that she herself had some hand in creating. Or at the very least perhaps taking classic dishes and putting a twist on them. Instead she appears to be content to copy and paste recipes that any person with Google could find. I did Google all of the recipes I looked at and found identical versions on other recipe sites such as allrecipes.com. Well I do not have an issue with her presenting genuinely good recipes to her followers; PW often tries to pass them off as family recipes or barely acknowledges the person she took them from. Good cookbooks such as Nigella Lawsons, How to Be a Domestic Goddess, are very upfront about where they first had a recipe and what changes they made to the dish. An example of this would be her “Grilled Chicken Salad with Feta, Fresh Corn, and Blueberries”. Now PW says she had this salad at a dinner party and then just had to make it, that this is her own version. She never tells us however what was different about the original version and what changes she made, in fact she barely credits “Katie the Caterer” in her post. This is just sloppy cooking, by all means change a recipe but tell us why, that is the only right thing to do. Especially when you have over one-hundred seventy-seven comments praising you for your creativity and for “kicking it up a notch in your gifted way”. Actually PW didn’t do squat, it is “Katie the Caterer” who deserves their accolades since PW can’t quite seem to say how she changed the recipe from the original.

To make it all the more infuriating when PW does rip off recipes to post they’re generally bad ones, or so basic as to be pointless. In April she posted a recipe for a Club Sandwich…you have got to be kidding me. As usual the recipe posted seemed merely a backdrop for her to tell a cute childhood story about herself. Also on her website is her recipe for BBQ sauce that she featured. It was one of the most basic I had ever read. As a building block for something maybe it could work, but you would have to go about ten steps beyond where she stopped to make a truly good recipe. But the recipe that ticked me off the most was the “Pig Cake” recipe that PW posted in January 2011. The list of ingredients includes yellow cake mix, margarine, cool whip, vanilla pudding mix, crushed pineapple, and mandarin oranges. Regarding the use of margarine PW said “Not butter…margarine. It brings out the flavor of the cake mix.” How do I begin to count the number of things wrong with that statement? If I could somehow ensure that this recipe would never be made I would! The worst part is that PW could have taken this recipe, “a potluck staple” and transformed it by making real yellow cake batter, using butter, actual whipping cream, and making authentic vanilla pudding. Instead she chooses laziness and to promote unhealthy chemical laden food.

Now that I think about it there is a recipe of hers that tops the “Pig Cake”. The “Milky Way Cake”, posted May 23rd, 2011. The recipe contains eleven Milky Way Bars and three sticks of margarine, which PW tries to pretend is cute by saying it is “vintage” (kill me now). Each serving contains 839 calories, 41 grams of fat, 113 grams of carbs. Yes please serve your family that for dinner, after all the Pioneer Woman does and she is perfect!

Moving along I looked at other clearly common recipes such as “Shrimp Scampi” and “Risotto Primavera”. I then decided to look at one of PW’s most beloved recipes, her “Best Lasagna Ever”. This recipe has been on her site since 2007 and since she credits no one for this recipe I assume that she came up with it all her own. This lasagna contains ground beef and breakfast sausage, sliced mozzarella and powdered parmesan, dried herbs, and cottage cheese. It’s assembled like any basic lasagna and cooked the same way. Now I have had lasagna nearly identical to this one and it was decent. But why not try to elevate the recipe? PW says that part of the greatness about this lasagna is that the ingredients are easy to find almost anywhere. Guess what? You can find ricotta cheese almost anywhere and that is better than cottage cheese. Also widely available is real shredded parmesan, fresh mozzarella and sweet hot Italian sausage, not to mention fresh basil and parsley. By just changing a few items the lasagna would become a masterpiece and the recipe made no more difficult. But I have noticed in PW’s recipes and in the comment section a rather odd and ugly class war going on. Commenter’s who dare to suggest how a dish might be improved by a substitution are beaten down by others as snobs. Gourmet is used as a negative word, NO ONE MUST DARE TO ELEVATE THEIR COOKING ABOVE THE PIONEER WOMANS!!!!!!!

So please, if you would like to sift through ten-thousand pictures and read self absorbed blather before you get to a mediocre recipe go right ahead. I’ll just be in my kitchen, looking through ACTUAL chef’s cookbooks and improvising some gourmet meals. Bon Appétit.

18 comments:

  1. I love this. So much. You really hit the nail on the head here...
    Thank you for posting!

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  2. Margarine? Really? I don't even know this lady and now I am pissed. I am going to look her up right now. BTW great article, and very interesting read!

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  3. Obviously the next place I am going after this is thepioneerwomansux.com ....

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  4. Actually, her lasagna recipe calls for fresh herbs, but I get your point. I enjoy PW's sense of humor, her photography, and her obvious love for, and enjoyment of, her family. But her lack of credibility in her recipes was a surprise. Thanks for removing some of the mystique! :)

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  5. Susan the recipe for lasagna on her website calls for dried herbs. Perhaps her "cookbook" has fresh instead?

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  6. Hahaha :D Wow, I've never actually read her blog or seen her recipes but I kind of wondered what all of the hype was about. I guess I don't really need to wonder anymore.

    3 sticks of margarine???? *gasp* *shudder* That is pretty nasty. :P

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  7. I've never been into the PW, I glanced at her site once. I would be shot if I put cottage cheese in lasagna or even bought margarine. Rand would never have it.

    But it does kind of bring to mind an interesting phenomenon among women that I have noticed and almost wish I could somehow capitalize on. If you make your photos really good, share cute kid stories, act like your life is somehow poetically picture perfect and even really well decorated and "talk" sweet all the time women will come to your blog in droves and buy whatever it is you have to sell. Even if it is redundant,cheap, whatever.

    Bummer I can never quite get my kids to look cutsie enough for the photos and I can't keep sweet up for long. :/

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  8. Yikes. Anger.
    Yes, I know her recipes are a bit old-school, and not brilliant. Her personality is a little annoying. But you know what? People LIKE her food. They like eating things they grew up with, they like the photos illustrating each step. They like that she went to the work of cooking with a camera in her hand and posting a recipe online with pictures of each step, which takes some time and effort.
    She might have found her recipes online, and not be great at explaining why she changed them - not cool, and something she should work on. But probably the reason people think she's so great is because she walks them through the steps and inspires them with photos of good-looking foods. It's encouraging to people who don't cook a lot, or want to make the basics. Maybe her website isn't for the cooking elite, but let's face it - not everyone wants to eat like a food snob. And it's not a crime to use dried herbs.
    A few years ago, Christ Church in Moscow put out a cookbook, and I recieved a copy for my wedding, which I flip through from time to time. Although there are some gems in there, lots of the recipes call for stuff like cream cheese, onion soup mix, yellow cake mix, chocolate pudding mix, marshmallow fluff. Old-school. Not my style. So I either A.) don't make those recipes or B.) alter them. But people love this cookbook! How dare they cook differently than me and act like this is the best cookbook in the world?! So what? Good for them. They're cooking at home, enjoying their kitchens, and feeding their families.
    Cooking is a very personal act that brings together your upbringing, culture and even view of life and family. Everyone has a different personality and background, and the fact is: not everyone prefers prosciutto to canadian bacon. (Sad, yet true.) We shouldn't expect everyone to be the same.

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  9. Wow. Quite a bit of cranky-ness going on here. Interesting. I think the PW does plenty well and has plenty to improve on (just as the rest of us). To my mind, her success suggests that people are attracted to the fact that Ree loves her family and takes joy in feeding them, dried herbs and all. She loves her husband--gushingly so, perhaps, but sincerely nonetheless. The widespread accolades point to the idea that culture in general has been missing this, and is really delighted by her example. More could be said, but Katie summed things up nicely. And my sweet babies are waking from their naps! Thanks for the food for thought.
    ~Naomi Lewis

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  10. I have the cookbook, but usually I flip through it for inspiration when trying to decide what to put on the table for dinner and then look up actual methods in my America's Test Kitchen cookbook. Definitely nothing gormet going on, but I appreciate having a source for simple, basic, weeknight food and I love her photography. However, some of her recipes have seriously flopped and I don't find the portions to be reliable.

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  11. That's it, I'm doing one of these about her, "photography."

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  12. Katie, I have to confess your comments leave me a bit baffled. You imply that I am a "food snob" because I favor the use of fresh herbs. I find it slightly terrifying that I am apparently thinking outside the box when I advocate the use of fresh growing things in cooking. I also did not say using dried herbs was a "crime". I simply asked why not elevate the dish if you could by adding fresh basil and the like? I also never implied everyone's cooking should be the same. The very act of good cooking usually results in spontaneity and massive amounts of creativity which I just don't find in a cake mix.

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  13. I'm not a PW fan. I haven't looked at her website or her cookbook in months, but I don't *think* she's professing to be a chef. I think what people like about her is that she's *supposed* to be an average mom (with a happy family, lots of money, and plenty of success). I think people are attracted to her blog because of the romantic, perfect feel.

    If there was a gourmet chef blog that talked to moms where they are and wasn't afraid to share their personality and life (as corny or whitewashed as that might look), people would probably like that too.

    People like *her* and we can very much not like her, but it's pretty harsh to bash someone on their personality.

    I totally agree with you on the recipe snatching. Very good point.

    But...unless I missed something, her site is simply promoting her as a mom, not as a chef.

    Interesting thoughts...

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  14. Miss Pickwickian thanks for the well thought out comments. But bashing her personality is exactly what I did NOT do. I said I found her annoying, that was all. I also suggested that she uses too many pictures and personal stories to conceal the lightness of her recipes. That has to do with her cooking. So yes I agree with you on not bashing someones personality, which I didn't do.

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  15. Yes. You weren't really bashing her personality... Thanks for the correction.

    I am totally on board when you say she is not an expert chef, but I don't think she's pretending to be something she's not.

    I think people love her *because* she has pretty, clean, how-to food pictures. Her blog did not start as a cooking blog, it's just a blog about her life and she's ended up making a bunch of money on it. (Who wouldn't go with this?) People love the stories because they aren't going there for professional cooking advice. They're going there to hear experiences from the sort of life a lot of people would love. (A cowboy, a sweet camera, hundreds of blog followers, etc...:-)

    I guess my main thought is just - You can't criticize someone for not being a chef, when they never claim to be one.

    People who call her a cooking pro would be wrong and it is wrong to not give credit for recipes, but I think most of the other "against" arguments are simply a preference or expectations problem. I don't read her blog (probably never will), but I think what she's doing is an encouragement and pleasure to some people.

    I think it's very interesting and can tell you a lot about people when we see her popularity...

    Anyways...don't want to argue. Just my thoughts. :-) Appreciated your post.

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  16. Maybe she has never said she is a chef in words, but isn't having your own published cookbook (a very popular one at that) claiming yourself to be a chef in some form or degree? Just thinking out loud....interesting thoughts.

    -Anna

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  17. As someone that regularly cooks out of the PW cookbook and reads her blog occasionally with enjoyment, I just have to jump in. :-)

    I think Miss Pickwickian makes very good points, about people loving the site for the promotion of family and beauty and simple living. Obviously the people who idolize her are wrong to do so, but I think bashing her for small mistakes that any one of us makes on a daily basis (which is what the pioneerwomansux.com is FULL of) is also wrong.

    I appreciate that you are trying to promote better cooking, Abbs...but I don't think you should bash the PW for promoting basic recipes and using pre-made ingredients (ie. dried herbs). Sometimes it's easier to make the lasagna with dried herbs. (And I must confess, my husband prefers PW lasagna because it has cottage cheese...he can't stand ricotta) And how hard is it for a thinking person to substitute fresh herbs if they'd rather? I guess I'm just trying to make the point that this seems to me to be an individual taste thing...some people prefer to cook more "gourmet" (if you will) and others to cook in a more basic (and yes, sometimes it's unimaginatively simple) way. I don't think either way is right or wrong. :-)

    Just some (sorry, can't help it) food for thought!

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  18. It is the "everyman" syndrome. In the sense there are so many people that are like her, a lot of people can relate. So then it comes down to people liking her but not so much all her recipes.
    Mario Batali said that Racheal Ray is definitely not a chef-however it is just that reason that everyone likes her.
    There are a lot of people blogging that have a lot of credentials and are very skilled which I do recognize the talent. That is a smaller percentage than those blogging at home for fun.
    Do you want to read the soccer mom's blog about food or do you want to read blogs of culinary wizards? It is a personal preference.

    I am not a culinary wizard but I do blog and just consider myself a hobbyist. I like the community and learn something probably every day from others. I post some of my own recipes as well as others. However, I do agree that hobbyists sometimes need to be put in there place though--in the true culinary world, they are not "all that".

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